How the Rolex Submariner Came To Be an Icon and Motivated Myriads of Copycats

The watch of choice for the initial James Bond and also Jacques Cousteau.

Reviewing watches can commonly feel like cracking open a textbook. Browsing– as well as even getting– means being barraged with ambiguous words and also phrases like “tourbillons,” “perpetual calendars,” “minute repeaters,” and so forth. So right here, we’ll be breaking down the meaning, background, and value of various watch terms. Welcome to GQ’s Watch Glossary.

In 1973’s Live and Allow Die, James Bond and the psychic/paramour Jewelry are delegated pass away in traditional extravagant-movie-villain-fashion. Kananga, the bad guy, ties Bond and also Jewelry to a system with ropes and also begins to decrease them right into a pit of sharks. It appears like it’s all over for our hero– till he hits a switch on his watch, it whirs to life, and Bond utilizes it as a buzzsaw to cut himself as well as Solitaire free from the ropes and also kill Kananga. The life-saving watch? A Rolex Submariner.

While this was the first time the Sub was called to action, the watch was there from the beginning of the Bond franchise. Sean Connery wore one in 1962’s Dr. No, the really first Bond film. And after that he wore a Sub in From Russia With Love, Goldfinger, as well as Thunderball, as well. It makes good sense that the suavest man in background would put on the Submariner: the Rolex design is just one of the most iconic pieces in watch background.

Rolex introduced the Submariner in 1954 as the first industrial watch that can dive 100 meters undersea. Rolex executive Rene-Paul Jeanerret took place to be an amateur diver, as well as friend of none other than epic marine traveler Jacques Cousteau. Jeanerret convinced Rolex president Hans Wilsdorf it was time to spend seriously in a watch made specifically for scuba divers.

black gold silver watch
blue as well as silver rolex
The Submariner accomplished exactly that. The watch is developed for plummeting to the bottom of the sea (or at least 330 feet right into it), and also not just by being water-proof. As opposed to numbers, hr markers come in large easy-to-differentiate forms– an arrowhead at 12-o-clock and also rectangular shapes every 3rd hour. The hr markers are also made with a product that brighten, angler fish-style. The rotating bezel lets a diver know how much time they’ve been submerged. One sign that Rolex got it all right: the general Submariner layout has been the motivation for generally every diver’s watch that’s come after it.

And all those bells and also whistles weren’t just bells as well as whistles. In 1954, the Institute for Deep Sea Research study tested the look for five months and reported back that it was totally waterproof. “All other previous examinations with water-resistant watches from leading brands showed water penetration from the first moment of the dive,” the institute composed. Accreditation in hand, Rolex supplied the French deep-diving firm Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises, or COMEX, with Submariners to make use of during expeditions.

blue gold silver rolex watch
rolex watch
Now, thanks to its illustrious background, the Submariner may be just one of one of the most instantaneously identifiable watches in the world. Starting in the late ’60s, Rolex introduced color to the Submariner, generating gold versions with deep-blue dials. Today, “Hunk”- eco-friendly variations of the Below are driving collection agencies insane. “The brand-new design Submariner 116610 [the most up to date evolution of the model presented in 2010] and the Hunk are red hot now,” states Paul Altieri, founder as well as Chief Executive Officer of Bob’s Watches, which focuses on Rolex. Altieri claims both versions are sold out at his shops, which has impacted the costs in foreseeable methods: “These watches were marketing below retail in the previously owned market just a few years ago and have actually currently increased in price.”

If there’s one knock on this legendary version, it’s that it is too prominent– or was, at least. Modern-day enthusiasts pursue the Rolex Daytona, for example, because of its provenance: thanks to a preliminary absence of appeal, fewer were produced, which makes them extra minimal. The Submariner, on the other hand, was produced much more regularly. Currently, however, Rolex is fussing with the dials, ratcheting down widespread accessibility of its iconic watch, as well as Altieri says he currently has over a lots clients waiting in line for the conventional Submariner and “substantially even more” for the Hunk version. “Rolex specifies deluxe as well as absolutely nothing drives require far better for a deluxe brand than item shortage,” Altieri says. Yet unusual market pressures apart, a watch does not just become this prominent by artfully pulling the levers of production. The Submariner is a genre-defining, proven-to-work watch made use of by James Bond and real-life divers alike. It’s all over for a reason.